Difficulty
K4-K5
Extremely difficult via ferrata
Gemmi, Bergstation, VS
Considered Switzerland's premier via ferrata, this route on the Daubenhorn climbs roughly 900 meters of steep.
Image: AT Verlag
Difficulty
K4-K5
Extremely difficult via ferrata
Current status
The latest source indicates this route is open
Checked 2 h ago
Total time
8 h 20 min
Approach + via ferrata + descent
Considered Switzerland's premier via ferrata, this route on the Daubenhorn climbs roughly 900 meters of steep, exposed limestone above Leukerbad using over 2000 meters of cable and 200 meters of ladders. The 'small' version already delivers a demanding, strength-sapping first section rated K4-5, capped by an airy ladder sequence to the Upper Gemsfreiheit. From there a long descent traverse leads back down through Mieläs and Tysche to Leukerbad.
Zoomable topographic map showing available approach, via ferrata, descent, start, finish, and parking geometry. The Download GPX link near the route map heading provides the same route geometry as a file.
Segment timings and vertical stats from the current VFOS dataset.
From the Gemmipass cable car station (2346 m), descend to Gemmipass, then turn left (southeast) on the old path down to the Lower Schmitte, a grassy terrace at about 2060 m marked by a large information board (20 minutes).
From the Lower Schmitte, follow the trail across the meadow to the base of the rock, crossing a rugged basin to reach the first cables. Narrow ledges lead around an exposed rock nose with views of the steep wall ahead, climbing steep terrain to the grassy ledge of Lerch (about 2190 m). Two short but airy traverses and several pull-up sections lead to a major 76-meter ladder pitch, ascending above the large Swiss Cross visible from Leukerbad, to a shoulder at the Upper Gemsfreiheit (2345 m, about 2 hours 20 minutes from the start). From here traverse left below the cliffs to the junction where the small and large via ferrata routes diverge.
Follow the cabled traverse from the Upper Gemsfreiheit across sloping meadows to Mieläs (about 2350 m), then descend in zigzags past rocky steps, some secured with cable, into the grassy Tysche basin (1832 m). Continue down through the Pischürgraben to the Fiess huts, then follow the Geissenweg back into Leukerbad, roughly 5.5 hours total from Gemmipass.
No escape point details are recorded yet.
Typical published season
Live status source; no fixed annual season was published.
Plan around the trailhead, parking, and public transport links.
Last lift down
Check operator
VFOS editorial ratings on a 1-5 scale.
Variety
How much the route changes in movement and terrain.
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Complexity
Route-finding and technical problem-solving beyond pure grade.
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Beauty
Scenery, setting, and overall aesthetic quality.
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Exposure
Airiness and exposure independent of technical difficulty.
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Sustained effort
How continuous or relentless the physical effort feels.
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No crux tags are recorded yet.
Source ratings on the SAC-CAS 1-4 scale.



Check current local information before setting off.
In Switzerland, call Rega on 1414 for mountain rescue. European emergency number: 112.
Cell coverage can be patchy in gorges, valleys, and behind ridges. Download route notes and tell someone your plan.
This route is flagged as exposed or high-grade; avoid thunderstorms, wet cables, and fast-changing alpine weather.
https://www.gemmi.ch/de/planen-buchen/oeffnungszeiten-betriebsinformationen
Last scraped: 2 Aug 2026 · Opening-season source retained for status provenance.
https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/huetten-und-touren/sac-tourenportal/daubenhorn-486/berg-und-alpinwandern/zustieg-klettersteig-daubenhorn-822/
Last scraped: 2 Aug 2026 · Official SAC-CAS Route Portal source; English API data and attribution retained.
https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/huetten-und-touren/sac-tourenportal/daubenhorn-486/berg-und-alpinwandern/abstieg-kleiner-klettersteig-daubenhorn-nach-leukerbad-824/
Last scraped: 2 Aug 2026 · Official SAC-CAS Route Portal source; English API data and attribution retained.
https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/huetten-und-touren/sac-tourenportal/daubenhorn-486/klettersteig/kleiner-klettersteig-leukerbad-via-ferrata-daubenhorn-707/
Last scraped: 2 Aug 2026 · Official SAC-CAS Route Portal source; English API data and attribution retained.
No contested fields are currently flagged.
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